1) Why these 7 rules matter if you build JDM cars on a real budget
Ever bought a “perfect” S13 Silvia front end only to find the bumper tabs were snapped and the headlight bracket didn’t line up? Or ordered a supposedly SR20DET-ready wiring harness that arrived missing five connectors and a crucial ground? If you build JDM projects between ages 22 and 38, working with limited cash and zero patience for bad sellers, this list is for you.
What’s the real problem? Cheap parts, fake reviews, and glossed-over fitment claims. Scammers post glossy photos and paid reviews so you think you're getting OEM quality for $150. Reality: you spend $400 total after shipping and adapters, then rip it off. This guide gives seven practical rules you can apply tonight to avoid that pain. Each rule includes examples using actual cars you care about - S2000, AE86, Silvia/240SX, GTRs, and older Supra swaps - and real cost estimates so you can plan instead of guessing. Why follow rules instead of winging it? Because winging it costs more than parts: it costs time, weekends, and the hype you needed to finish the car.
Do you want checklists you can use when messaging sellers? Do you want to know which photos prove a part actually exists and which are recycled from aftermarket catalogs? Keep reading. These seven rules will save you cash, keep parts that fit standing up in your garage, and make your build actually progress.
2) Rule #1: Verify fitment with VIN, measurements, and original part numbers - not seller claims
“Fits all Skyline R33” is meaningless. Which R33? GT-R? GTS-t? US-market front clip from a 1996 R33 will differ from a 1998 JDM R33 exchange. The only reliable methods: VIN-level fitment, cross-reference of OEM part numbers, and physical measurements or photos that show the part mounted next to known reference points.
Ask sellers three things every time: what OEM part number is stamped or printed on the part; can they send photos of the part installed on the car or next to a measuring tape; and what is the donor car’s VIN or full model code (e.g., S14 Silvia KOUKI KA24DE). If a seller can’t supply these, walk away. For example, a used S2000 AP1 rear subframe mounts differently than an AP2; bolt hole spacing is the same, but swaybar mounting points and endlink geometry differ and will affect handling and fit of aftermarket arms. A mis-specified subframe can add $500 to alignment and part fabrication costs.
How to cross-check OEM numbers fast
- Use parts catalog sites like partsouq, Toyota OEM parts lookup, or Nissan EPC to confirm numbers. Search forums for threads where members post OEM numbers for swaps - often the exact piece is listed with known modifications. If the part is from Japan auctions, ask for the Yahoo Auction item number or the Seiko inspection sheet; reputable exporters include that.
Would you prefer guessing and paying $200 in adaptors, or paying $20 to verify fitment upfront?
3) Rule #2: Source from track record vendors - not storefronts with five-star spam
Where you buy matters as much as what you buy. Big marketplaces are full of storefronts that buy fake positive reviews through reseller networks. Instead of trusting star ratings, use vendor history and proof-of-delivery patterns.
What should you look for? How long they’ve specialized in JDM parts, verified buyer photo records, returns policy with photos/video required, and track record on forums. For instance, a small specialty shop that has been trading JDM SR20DET cylinder heads for six years and posts compression tests and photos of valve clearance readings is far more trustworthy than a shop with 10,000 five-star reviews and stock template images. Do you want parts that actually work, or polished product pages?
Examples: You’ll find reliable used engine sellers that list compression numbers, oil pressure tests, and turbo kits verified crank-run videos for $1,800 - $2,500 for a clean SR20DET. They’ll also state packing costs ($250-450 for overseas shipping), and offer optional crate and pallet upgrades. A flashy storefront might list the same engine at $1,600 but omit compression data and charge $600 to “upgrade” packing during checkout - classic bait and switch.
4) Rule #3: Spot fake reviews and product photos fast - here are signals that scream “scam”
How do you know a five-star review is real? You don’t, unless you dig. Fake reviews follow patterns: short language, no specifics, repeated phrases across multiple products, and reviewers with no purchase history except that one glowing message. Photos are another red flag. Stock photos, overused angles, and identical backgrounds across multiple sellers mean that image was lifted from a catalog or other listing.
Ask yourself: Does the review mention exact bolt patterns, torque values, or fitment examples like “mounted on my 1990 AE86 with TRD rear towers”? If not, it’s probably fake. Real buyers mention installation quirks, trim removal, and what else they had to buy. Also cross-check reviews across platforms - a product with perfect ratings on one marketplace but no mention on specialized forums is suspicious.
Practical checks in 5 minutes
Google the seller’s review text in quotes - copy-paste a flattering line and search. If the line appears on five different products, the review network is likely fake. Use reverse image search on the product photo - if it appears on multiple unrelated listings, image theft is happening. Ask for timestamped photos of the part in hand with a handwritten note that includes your username and date. Real sellers will comply; scammers usually stall or provide stock images.Which do you trust more - a review that says “great part” or a video showing the part bolted on and the seller measuring bolt centers?
5) Rule #4: Inspect used parts like a mechanic - corrosion, straightness, and wear matter more than cosmetics
Parts that look good in pictures can hide structural issues. Rust near welded joints, pitting on bearing journals, and warped rotors are deal-breakers. Learn to request and interpret specific inspection photos or videos. For example, on a used Supra JZA80 subframe, check weld seams for hairline cracks, measure trailing arm bushings for slop, and ask for a straight-edge shot to reveal bending.
What should you be asking the seller to show? For engines: serial number, cylinder bore photos with a bore gauge reading if possible, compression or leak-down test numbers, and a video of the engine cranking and idling on a stand. For turbochargers: shaft play in both axial and radial directions, compressor wheel tip damage, and oil residue around seals. For body panels: check inner lips and mounting flanges for rust and repaired accident damage. Cosmetic dents are fine; structural bends are not.
Concrete numbers help make decisions. Would you buy a used 2JZ-GTE with 160,000 miles and a leak-down of 20% on cylinder three? Probably not without rebuilding. Expect a clean used 2JZ long block from Japan with 100,000-140,000 km to cost $2,200-$3,200 shipped; add $700-$1,200 for machine work if you need a fresh head gasket and valve job.
6) Rule #5: Always factor total landed cost - shipping, broker fees, customs, adapters, and reworks
Parts pricing is only part of the equation. How often do you see a “$150 JDM intercooler” that becomes $480 after shipping and brokerage? Or a $300 wiring harness that needs $120 in connectors and $60 in shrink tubing and pins to be usable? Plan the total cost before you click buy.
Here’s a quick checklist for landed cost:
- Item price Domestic shipping to exporter or auction house ($20-$150) International shipping or air freight ($200-$700 depending on size and weight) Customs duties and VAT - varies by country, often 0-10% on parts for US buyers, more in EU Broker and handling fees ($50-$250) Adapters/mounts/brackets ($20-$300 depending on complexity) Return shipping if it doesn’t fit ($100-$700)
Example: You want a complete Nismo S15 Silvia front clip listed at $1,400 from Japan. Shipping quotes: $450 by sea, $85 domestic pickup, $150 broker. Duty and VAT combined add $200. Total? $2,285 before any fabrication or paint. Suddenly the “deal” isn’t a deal. Would you rather spend $2,285 and get a directly compatible clip, or spend $1,400 and scramble to fab mounts for improper fitment?
7) Your 30-Day Action Plan: Concrete steps to stop getting burned and finish your build
Ready for a plan you can execute this month? Below is a 30-day checklist with clear actions, timelines, and what to expect financially. Follow it and you’ll reduce costly mistakes and accelerate progress on the lift, swap, or resto project.
Day 1-3 - Audit: List the top five parts you need right now. For each, write down OEM numbers, desired condition (new/used/rebuilt), and acceptable price range including landed cost. Example: “SR20DET short block - $1,800-$2,500 landed.” Day 4-7 - Vet sellers: Join or revisit three model-specific forums (S2000.org, My350Z, RB25DET forum). Post a single, clear question asking for vendor recommendations. Private message any vendor that shows real run videos and compression numbers. Save contact info. Day 8-12 - Fitment check: Contact sellers and request VIN, OEM part number, and timestamped photos. If you get evasive answers, remove them from the shortlist. Expect to lose 60% of leads this way; that’s fine. Day 13-18 - Cost breakdown: For the two best offers on each part, calculate total landed cost using the checklist above. Call a broker for a firm quote if shipping is >$300. Day 19-24 - Inspection push: For used parts, request a short video showing mounting points, number stamps, and any odometer/round-count proof where relevant. For engines, demand compression or leak-down numbers. Day 25-28 - Final decision: Choose the vendor with verified fitment, real inspection proof, and transparent landed cost. Pay with a buyer-protected method where possible - PayPal goods, escrow services, or verified shop invoices. Day 29-30 - Prep for arrival: Order any small adapters, bolts, or gaskets you’ll need so you can install immediately. Example: buying a head gasket set for a purchased 2JZ long block costs $120-$180 and avoids a wasted day waiting for parts.Quick summary - what to remember
Ask for VIN and OEM numbers before believing fitment claims. Pick sellers with a track record and real inspection data. Learn to spot fake reviews and stolen photos in five minutes. Inspect used parts for structural issues, not just cosmetics. Always calculate landed cost - that $150 “deal” usually becomes $400-plus. Finally, use the 30-day plan to turn vague intentions into actual progress.
Do you have a specific part you’re hunting right now? Tell me the model and your budget and I’ll apply these rules and give a short assessment - whether it’s a Supra rear gearbox, an S13 front subframe, or a rare Nismo coilover set. Want me to draft the exact messages to send to sellers and brokers? I’ll write them for you so you don’t get ghosted or sold hype.
